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Showing posts from March, 2012

Off to the Ruins I Go!

Today was a Siracusa Day, staying fairly close to home, and exploring this side of the city.  This morning the Tomb of St. Lucia was open, such a beautiful space.  The most evocative marble sculpture of her, and behind this "hole in the wall" that went to catacombs where Lucy herself was buried.  The paintings the altar, and the space invited the holy.  What a fine way to begin the day.  After lunch Fina and I went to the Archeological Gardens.  The largest and most well preserved Greek Theater is there - they do Greek play there for 2 months out of the year, May and June - Fina is going for the first time this year just before she heads back to Wisconsin - I would love to go someday.  I also explored the Grotto of the Ear - this is where the slaves were kept - someone had to do all of the unexplainable labor - the Greek theater is stone that was cut on the spot -- the grotto has unbelievable acoustics and the structure itself is so high and shaped in the most inviting curves

Ortegia

After returning from Noto yesterday, and taking a rest, while Fina was off at a lesson, I ventured out myself walking from the Borgata in Siracusa to the walled island of Ortegia.  I had been all or part of the way there twice with Serafina, and I locked up the apartment and put keys in my pocket along with a piece of paper that had her address, and I was off!  It was late afternoon and into early evening as I walked along the streets, across the first bridge, along the wharf, past the Trattoria where I had my first lunch out in Sicily (I am still savoring that meal!), past the horse barn, through the park, and then over the small bridge into Ortegia.  The first sight that you see is the Temple of Apollo.  The photo is taken as you enter Ortegia, there is the anteroom, columns, and other outer structures, the wall to the right is what is left of the "house of god".  The house that was in the center part of the Temple was never entered by man and only thought to the

Bus Ride to Noto.....

What an incredible day, this was the first day that we took a bus trip out of the city.  We took a 45 minute drive to Noto.  This is a city in Southern Sicily that was totally rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693, the old city was just left, it's ruins are covered with centuries of coverings, and it has never been excavated.  Where we went in Noto is high up on the hill, this is where the aristocracy in all the splendor of the Baroque Period built their villa's, churches, the center of the city.  We toured the one villa that is open to the public.  Tomorrow I will post some of the interior.  The first picture is of the Arch that you cross over as you enter the center of Noto, the second is one of the amazing churches that Noto is famous for, and the third is a courtyard of the local school.  School was just getting out when we walked by.  We had lunch outdoors on a courtyard in front of the theater, and then went for gelato - I had read that the place we went to made th

Noon Bells Ringing

We have just arrived back home from the weekly market in Siracusa, I went with Fina and her friend Maria.  Maria was a classics professor, and Fina meets with her weekly to talk.  I barely understood much of the conversation, however I could tell how they have developed such a fine loving relationship.  This market does not have food, there was fabric, yarn, clothes, shoes, kitchen things, trinkets, jewelry, beads, and much much more.  It is like many of our estate or sale places, lots of junk and some real jewels.  Both Maria and Fina are knitters like myself, and I bought some yarn that makes amazing scarves.  We are going to go sit by the sea in the sun this afternoon, and Fina is finishing her Italian lessons and I am going to knit, and wander, and write and soak it all up.  The sun is very hot today, and the sky is a much lighter blue, there is not a cloud to be seen.   I also bought some palms, three for the trinity, but mostly for the aesthetic of them.  I am going to bring

Walking in Siracusa

This morning after Breakfast I checked out of my wonderful B & B, I didn't take any pictures but here is the link: http://www.infiorescenza.it/ It was quite magical, and it was at their "bar" that I had my first hot chocolate in Italy.  When I was in Paris with Sasha I fell in love with the hot chocolate, and unfortunately have never had such an experience at home.  This morning, I had another wonderful moment.  Yum, I had the classico, but there were like 20 choices of hot chocolate, all hot, and creamy and thick and oh so chocolate!  The B & B is less than two blocks from Fina's and I walked over, and we went on errands in the neighborhood.  Picked out frame for Fina's new mirror in her living  room, went to the artisan to discuss the frame and backing and mirror, along the way Fina pointed out old villa's, cornices, doorways.  This is my favorite from this a.m.  I love the strength, the tranquility and the fabulous red of the wall.  Home for

View from Serafina's Balcony

Serafina lives in a very working class neighborhood in Siracusa, this is the view as you look out her glass doors that go to an outdoor balcony.  She has two of these great tall glass doors and they provide the light in her apartment.  We walked this a.m. (I did do a small post on fb) to Ortegia, stopped briefly at the daily market, where I tasted the most lovely fresh capers and had tastes of various treats from the stand that Fina goes to often.  We did not stop long as we were meeting a friend, who happens to be an expert on ancient architecture.  So on the first day walking in Sicily I got to be on a personal walking tour.  Entrances that come onto buildings or monuments or squares which come at an angle were meant to expand the feeling of grandness as it is a visually different experience than coming onto something straight on, and he showed on these ancient streets where that happened.  He pointed out stairways, they built stairways outside as to not take up any internal space,

Day 2 - Overnight at the B & B

I am at a loss for words-the sights and sounds are so evocative.  First thing that touched me is that the old men I saw at the airport and on the streets as we walked to Fina's house reminded me of my step-father's family.  They were  Slovanian.  Round, close to the ground, and faces that were sculpted with great expression or well shielded from impressions.  Where I grew up there were many Italians, Eastern Europeans, very few Scandinavians so it was comforting the familiarity of their faces and how they moved.  I love what it evoked in me, and the ways that I felt invited back into this country.  The part of Siracusa that we are in is called the Borgata, it is the first settlement beyond Ortigia (the walled city of Sicily).  There is no evidence of the second walled city but I am staying on Sante Lucia Square, and the old Norman (Romanesque) style church built in 1200's, and then converted to Baroque.  The remains of St. Lucy are still there, and the tree lined square sti

Rome

Sitting in the lounge, waiting for my connection from Rome to Catonia.  It was a very easy flight across the ocean, as daylight emerged I could see the green hills, the sea, incredible buildings.  It didn't look like NYC as I took off from Newark.  I really liked seeing the Statue of Liberty as we took off.  It is majestic.  I slept, and read, and studied my Italian.  People are gracious and I am enjoying the melody of this language.  No pictures yet.  I have to get myself settled in the Inn that I am staying at for two nights.  It is only a few blocks from Serafina's home, but it is a way for me to rest, and to begin to negotiate on my own, and not feel so very dependent on Fina to speak for me.  It will be different in Sicily, and especially in her neighborhood in Siracusa, people do not speak English.  So here I go.  First day in Italy!  Ciao

Journaling my days!

This is brief! I am going on vacation. I have been planning for a long time to go visit my friend Serafina. She spends the winter in Siracusa Sicily. I will be there in the morning! Right now I am in Princeton, NJ and the flowers are in bloom, the bushes and trees are flowering, I am staying with my friends Kathy and Irv, and their two dogs. The birds are chirping and singing, and I have already experience my favorite kind of weather, the "no weather" weather day. Perfect last night and this a.m. I have been pushed and prodded to begin my blog again so that people can follow along on my adventures. It is a place I can post pictures. Not sure how much I will write, but this will be a fine way to take the time to "jot" down some of the things you are sure you will NEVER forget, and they fade away in the adjustment of returning home. Here is a link to 3 minutes of Siracusa my home base away from home. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxUyQuuZj44 Ciao